Isla de Cozumel, "Island of the Swallows" in Mayan. This tiny island is off the eastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico. Its economic success is primarily due to two different tourist-based industries: cruise ship travellers and scuba divers. The latter are a funny bunch, they stay on the island sometimes for months at a time and spend lots of money, but they don't buy many trinkets and aren't big nighttime party animals. The cruisers (I refer to them as those Bote People for short) are probably a bigger source of income for the economy in general. They're only here for eight hours of the day, but they come in droves six days a week, probably as many as 20,000 people per day. And they're rich and they buy lots of alcohol, trinkets and tours. The people of Cozumel welcome all of us with open arms.
Living on Cozumel is not something I ever considered until it happened. My company was having an all too rare slow period due to the holidays and there turned out to be nothing pressing at home that needed my attention. So at the end of our annual 3-week stay (it usually starts a week or two before Thanksgiving) Tracey and I looked at each other and said, Why Not? Thus began our new extended adventures. It will be just short of four months when we finally leave in February.
What's surprising is that even during high season (December to February) there's still plenty of vacancies here. That may have something to do with 2005's two record setting, highly destructive hurricanes. Or maybe not. Whatever the reason, finding inexpensive digs is not hard if you don't mind doing some legwork. Speaking a little bit of Espanol doesn't hurt one bit either.
When people find out about how long we've been here, one question invariably comes up: "What in the world do you do for a living?" usually followed by "How do you manage to travel for such a long time?" Those who know us know why (and since you're here you probably know too). But in case you don't some clues might be found on Tracey's blog website. Suffice to say after living in Ireland, I've adapted to having a more minimalist lifestyle.
In no particular order, here are some categorised impressions I have of Cozumel and Mexican lifestyle, as viewed from the eyes of this here tourist:
Food
Common misconception is that the food is unhealthy for gringoes: salad and fruits cannot be washed enough to be safe, vegetables should only be cooked. The water will give you Montezuma's. Well, it is true that you don't drink the tap water here (even the locals don't) but it is safe enough to shower in and brush your teeth. For everything else bottled water comes in 5 gallon jugs at a cheap price. All the local 'tiendas' (corner stores or 'mini supers' as they oxymoronically call them) carry them so you don't have to port them far.
Produce from the grocery store is harmless and has never made me ill. I've never gotten sick from food at any restaurant either. Its high time for gringo opinions of Mexian food to change!
The quality of restaurants on Cozumel is excellent with many gourmet-level within walking distance of the square. My favourites include (in no specific order) Casa Denis, Prima, La Choza, Manati, Rockin' Java, Coco's (only open for desayunos/breakfast), Le Chef, Midori. Midori is the only near-Japanese sushi restaurant on Cozumel and when I need a break from local fare, this is always good for a fix. The Coffee Bean is the best place for a cuppa joe, however be warned that their beans are really strong in caffeine. I've been told that Starbucks will be invading Cozumel by May 2007.
One of my favourite lunch places is a little take-out on Avenida 30 between Calle 5 y 7 which sells "pollos carbon" or barbeque chicken. For the whopping sum of US$6.50 (70 pesos) you can get a whole chicken with trimmings of tortillas, onions, salsa and rice. Great for two meals feeding two people.
There are a few restaurants I don't recommend, which include: Palmeras, Suzanne's, French Quarter, and the three outdoor restaurants on the same row as Casa Denis. These places either have disappointing food, bad service and/or will try to cheat you on the bill. La Mision on Calle 3 used to be good a few years ago but the portions and quality have slipped in recent years.
I really love local food but to tell the truth I'm accustomed to a wider ethnic variety. After just two weeks on Cozumel my taste buds start to suffocate from boredom. Oh, what I'd give right now for a bite of Ethiopian food! It's been *weeks* since I last had anything that tasted like Thai food. Oh, and how I miss Athens Grill (Greek) from back home....
San Miguel
Downtown San Miguel, the only city on Cozumel, is where we live. Just two blocks from the central Plaza. The plaza here is beautifully landscaped and has been very active especially during the Christmas holidays. Tracey wrote some stuff in her blog so you should go read that. For festivities, the big day is Sunday where the locals have the day off (sort of) to take time for church and family. In the evening the Plaza has Latin music played by a local(?) band which is quite good. The Plaza is active at every corner and not only do the stores stay open late (they'd be foolish not to!) but you will find street painters (they use spray paint cans as their medium - fascinating to watch), clowns, hair braiders and stands that sell churros and french fries fresh made.
Noise
Since we work during the day in our flat, we get bombarded with noise of all sorts. Mexican culture is notoriously sonorous and Cozumel is no exception. A lot of the cars aren't well maintained (too expensive to do so) and usually the muffler goes first. Especially on the scooters which are extremely popular here. If the local policia wanted to have a new fundraiser, all they'd have to do is enact a noise ordinance.
During the day we get the occasional clop-clop-clop-clop-clop as the horse-drawn taxis go by carrying bote people back and forth between town and the southern pier. At the corner opposite the flat there's a dog whose main purpose in life is to bark at every horse as it passes. I sympathise with the horses. This same said dog is also the source of the "guano de perro" we find along our route. Translate that as you like. Use google if you need help.
About twice a week a man walks by that sings out "QueeeeeEEEEEESsssooOOOOOOOOOO WAAAAA-KAAA-KAAAA" as he carries a box over his head. The first two syllables are sung in this amazing tenor voice that carries for over a block. The last part is more or less shouted and to hear it you wouldn't think it was coming from the same person. I had to ask a local (well, an expat US cit) what this was. Apparently it is Queso Oaxaca, or cheese made in the style originated in the Oaxaca region of Mexico. It is a string cheese, creamy and sometimes a little sweet. Somewhat similar to provolone.
The policia here actively enforce the (not clearly marked) No Parking laws. Everyday you can hear them as they pull up to an illegally parked car and blat their sirens a few times. They then wait there for the allotted 2-3 minutes. If the car isn't moved they then go into action, writing a ticket and removing the license plates. They don't tow the vehicle, but you have to go pay a hefty fine to get your plate back. Seems like a fairly efficient enforcement system, however I see lots of vehicles driving around with no plates! Do they ever get stopped?
Scuba Duba... what?
There are more Scuba Divers per capita here than anywhere I've ever been. Scuba is like a third language here. Anytime you go out to dinner you're going to sit next to a table of divers who have no choice but to talk about where they dove that day, how much air they consumed, what gear they want to buy/try next, etc etc. I'm sure the waiters tuned it out long ago.
There are also more scuba dive shops than you'd think possible. And they range in size from a closet to... well, none of them are very big. They don't have to be because most of a diver's time is spent on a boat and not in the shop.
Scuba divers in general are an older crowd, with a median age probably in mid to late 40's. That makes this resort town look kind of geriatric by Club Med vacationer standards. By contrast, Playa del Carmen (the sister town on the mainland immediately across the ferry) is a much younger, hip and active generation "The Young and The Restless" with a more active partygoer mentality. If you're single and looking, don't stay in Cozumel on your vacation. Stay in Playa, but come here for the scuba diving.
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